The lands of the Eastern Mediterranean - The Levant - have always been places of destiny. Since the events of 9/11 in New York, they may be too hot for casual tourism. During a lull before the latest storm, Ian Smith was able to make an unforgettable journey to meet beleaguered Christians and their communities. Despite demographic decline, here are some heartwarming cameos of moral and practical toughness from Christians of traditions as far apart as Anglicans and Maronites, Pentecostals and Armenians.